Las Vegas Weekly
Monday, April 16, 2012 | 6 p.m.
1. The riserva steak
Carnevino, at Palazzo, 789-4141.
Dry-aging is rightfully all the rage, but 60 days is for wusses. Carnevino does it the right way with the riserva—minimum
240-day
dry-aged steaks. Yeah, I said it: eight months. The riserva displays
the pungency of gorgonzola while conveying the essence of pure meat in
every bite. After experiencing this, you’ll never look at steak in the
same way.
2. Chicken fingers
Crown & Anchor British Pub, 1350 E. Tropicana Ave., 739-8676; 4755 Spring Mountain Road, 876-4733.
This homey British pub hardly looks like a culinary must from the
outside, but belly up to a plate of the chicken fingers and you’ll
quickly reconsider. Crispy, golden breading wraps impossibly moist
chicken with wide bowls of hot sauce and ranch for dipping. Good luck
keeping them to yourself.
3. Hot N Juicy style shrimp
Hot N Juicy Crawfish, 4810 Spring Mountain Road, Suite C-D, 891-8889; 3863 Spring Mountain Road, 750-2428.
Sure, the place is called Crawfish, but those mudbugs offer scant
meat for such effort. Better go with the shrimp Hot N Juicy style in a
seasoning mix that combines all the other flavors for a garlicky, Cajun
kick that will have you licking your fingers long after the last
crustacean has disappeared into your belly. Just be careful not to rub
your eyes.
4. Consome loco and cochinita pibil tacos
Los Antojos, 2520 S. Eastern Ave., #B, 457-3505.
This family-run hole-in-the-wall turns out authentic Mexican food that’s the antithesis of drive-thru fare, like the
consome loco,
a crazy-good chicken soup with rice, avocado and lime that’s as
comforting as anything your mother makes. Follow it with a pair of
cochinita pibil
tacos, spicy pork cooked in banana leaves and topped with pickled
onions. You’re favorite carnitas will seem boring by comparison.
5. Khao soi
Lotus of Siam, 953 E. Sahara Avenue #A5, 735-3033.
Thai food is based on four flavors—sour, sweet, salty and bitter—and
this dish off the famed restaurant’s Northern Thai menu melds them all
in one addictive meal. Coconut cream curry packs a sweet, mellow heat
over egg noodles and your protein of choice, garnished with red onion,
lime and pickled vegetables for some essential balance. Order it once
and you’ll be hard pressed to get anything else.
6. Honey toast
Ichiza, 4355 Spring Mountain Road, 367-3151.
Save room for dessert. After you’ve sampled this Japanese
izakaya’s
savory nibbles, it’s time for the honey toast—a loaf of chewy white
bread with the top lopped off, baked till the crust is crisp with butter
and honey melted into its gooey center then topped with heavy scoops of
vanilla ice cream. It’s hot and cold, salty and sweet—the kind of
simple, gratifying dessert that lingers long after you’ve put down the
spoon.
7. The counter
Tiffany’s Cafe, inside White Cross Drugs, 1700 Las Vegas Blvd. S., 444-4459.
We all love quiet corner booths, but sometimes nothing beats the buzz
of an old-school counter. At Tiffany’s, being up close means getting to
watch the cook as he works the grill (yeah, we said cook, not chef),
scope out the strange assortment of wall hangings and eyeball the ...
unique cast of characters coming through the door. Oh yeah, the classic,
greasy-spoon food’s pretty good, too, especially after a long night at
the bars.
8. $20.12 lunch
Estiatorio Milos, at Cosmopolitan, 698-7000.
Three courses. Twenty dollars. The lunch special at this
Mediterranean seafood palace is not only an incredible deal, it’s
incredibly delicious. While it’s hard to go wrong here, for our Jackson,
the best lineup is charcoal-broiled octopus (additional $10), grilled
lavraki (sea bass) and the sinfully rich Greek yogurt martini.
9. Miso ramen
Monta, 5030 Spring Mountain Road, #6, 367-4600.
The salty bite of fermented soybean paste mellows into steaming pork
broth for a nutty, whisperingly sweet bath for tender wheat noodles and
wood ear mushrooms, green onions and mustard leaves, paper-thin wheels
of pork belly and a hard egg showing off a perfect, golden yolk. The
dish is almost too beautiful to eat. But the wicked blend of tastes and
textures will have your spoon scraping the bottom of the bowl.
10. Omakase
Sen of Japan, 8480 W. Desert Inn Road, #F1, 871-7781.
Sen of Japan chefs Shinji Shichiri and Hiro Nakano know their food
better than you, so why bother with actually ordering? That’s the beauty
of
omakase—you leave the choices up to the experts. Your only
responsibility is to enjoy the trip. Whether or not the dishes are on
the menu is irrelevant; it’s going to be a memorable night.
11. Soup dumplings
China Mama, 3420 S. Jones Blvd., 873-1977.
Beloved among local foodies, these petite steamed dumplings are the
ideal start to an authentic Chinese meal. Scoop them onto your spoon
carefully—each bite contains a mouthful of tasty pork bathing in rich
broth—then slurp and chew your way to dumpling bliss.
12. Firefly
Multiple locations.
Everyone has favorite dishes at this local Spanish mainstay, where
the food comes fast and furious and the crowd is young, boozy and on its
way to a great night. Gather a group of friends and pass around plates
of bacon-wrapped dates, Manchego mac and cheese, chorizo clams and
tortilla Española, all washed down with a pitcher of sangria or mojitos, (preferably the blood orange variety) liberally poured.
Guest Pick: Rick Harrison, Pawn Stars
13. Lamb Tagine
Vintner Grill, 10100 W. Charleston Blvd., #150, 214-5590.
Braised in a terracotta pot with dried fruit, cumin, coriander and
hot Tunisian chili, an entire leg of Colorado lamb gets extravagantly
tender. Executive chef Matthew Silverman says steam locks in and infuses
the juices with bursts of date and apricot. Served with currant-almond
couscous and a drizzle of preserved lemon and yogurt, it’s a
Moroccan-inspired feast. Or, as Rick says, “It’s ridiculously good!”
14. Monthly Wine Dinner
at Todd’s Unique Dining 4350 E. Sunset Road, 259-8633.
Well-known and loved dishes like skirt steak on fire and seared ahi
tuna with wasabi mashed potatoes keep the regulars coming back to this
Henderson institution, but the monthly dinners with varying wine
pairings are where chef/owner Todd Clore offers exciting kitchen
experimentation and expands his patrons’ tastes. It’s not unusual for
one of the featured plates to make its way onto the permanent menu.
15. Osso bucco
Ferraro’s, 4480 Paradise Road, 364-5300.
Nothing less than a Vegas Italian institution, Ferraro’s didn’t miss a
beat when it relocated from West Flamingo to Paradise (across from the
Hard Rock) in late 2009. The signature braised veal shank remains one of
the city’s favorite dishes, impossibly tender and rich with red wine
reduction. It’s as good as you remember.
16. Bouchon’s weekend brunch
At Venetian, 414-6200.
Brunch options on the Strip have never been more varied and
bountiful, but no restaurant’s baked goodies and savory-sweet combos are
more consistently awesome than Bouchon’s. Brioche and jam, pecan sticky
buns or scones alone could be a feast, but then you’d miss out on
housemade sausages, roasted chicken and waffles, incredible salmon
rilletes, and for God’s sake, don’t skip the profiteroles.
17. Melrose Shrimp
Nora’s Cuisine, 6020 W. Flamingo Road, #10, 365-6713.
Frank Sinatra croons while you’re on hold, desperately hoping Nora’s
has a table. Once you’re seated it’s a dream of spotless white linen,
perfect wine pours and plates of rustic, elegant food served steaming
from the chef’s pan. The Melrose typically comes with linguine, but
fresh gnocchi ($3 extra) is even better with silky basil pesto bejeweled
with pine nuts, sun-dried tomatoes and tender zucchini. Add the briny
ambrosia of giant, juicy shrimp and you have pasta that flat out refuses
to play second fiddle.
18. The Western
Luv-It Frozen Custard, 505 E. Oakey Blvd., 384-6452.
Luv-It’s rotation of custards changes daily and is outlined two
months in advance on the website. You need no advance notice, however,
for the Western. Your choice of custards is drenched in hot fudge,
caramel and pecans. Get fresh banana nut if they have it; otherwise,
just pick whatever’s calling your name and enjoy a classic from a Valley
institution.
Guest Pick: Jack Houston, Editor, LVM:
19. Chilaquiles
Border Grill, at Mandalay Bay, 632-7403.
“It was late into my first brunch at Border Grill when executive chef Mike Minor implored me to try the
chilaquiles:
crispy tortilla chips topped with tender beef brisket, chilies and
cheeses and an egg cooked to order (over easy, please). The resulting
explosion of flavors and textures made certain that I would order it
first next time around—which, thanks to the incredible price point
($29.99 for all-you-can-eat small plates, $5 for bottomless mimosas),
ended up being the following weekend. If you crave Roberto’s or Taco
Bell after a long Friday or Saturday night, the
chilaquiles beg you to reconsider.”
20. Kaiseki menu at Raku
5030 W. Spring Mountain Road #2, 367-3511.
Raku is the quintessential chef’s hangout, perhaps the industry’s
favorite late-night haunt for refined yet approachable grub. But most
chefs are too busy working to experience the artistic Kaiseki dinner, 10
courses for $100 or 15 courses for $150 spotlighting seasonal
ingredients in chef Mitsuo Endo’s signature simple, pristine style. Call
ahead for your chance at special plates like edamame tofu, amazing
sashimi with fresh wasabi and Kobe beef tataki.
21. Nachos Nachos Nachos
Peppermill, 2985 Las Vegas Blvd., 735-4177.
The Peppermill’s Fireside Lounge is Vegas iconic, a must-visit and
must-imbibe destination for us all. But after a few Mai Tais, you’re
going to need something powerful, and that’s where the (equally iconic?)
Nachos Nachos Nachos come into play. This massive mountain of tortilla
chips covered in melty cheese, spicy ground beef, refried beans, salsa,
jalapeños, tomatoes and black olives will hit the spot in every way. You
haven’t really done the Peppermill until you’ve attacked this junk-food
masterpiece.
22. Risotto ai frutti de mare
Bartolotta, at Wynn, 248-3463.
Bartolotta is now unequivocally the signature dining experience at
Wynn and Encore, famous for providing a fresh-from-the-Mediterranean
seafood experience in a luxurious atmosphere. Whole roasted fish is the
calling card, but this simple, beautiful (and quite affordable at $22)
risotto combines perfect Italian tradition with shrimp, lobster, clams,
crab, cuttlefish and more, a hearty yet refreshing must.
23. Vegan donuts
Ronald’s Donuts, 4600 Spring Mountain Road, 873-1032.
Odds are, when you hear the words “vegan” and “donut” in the same
sentence, the first word that comes to mind is not “yum.” Think again.
The glazed alone will have you forgetting all about Krispy Kreme, but
experiment further and try the apple fritter and maple bar. How do they
do it? Who knows, but why question perfection?
24. Black cod
Nobu, at Hard Rock Hotel, 693-5090.
Existing somewhere between a culinary cliché and a game-changer is
the miso-glazed black cod from Nobu. Who knows how many
on-the-way-to-the-club types and trendy foodie folks have wolfed down
this dish, from the flagship Nobu in New York to the Vegas outpost and
everywhere in between? It’s okay to poke fun since it’s so
good—delicate, almost buttery fish lacquered in a slightly sweet,
umami-laden sauce.
25. Secret pizza
At Cosmopolitan, 698-7860.
If the Cosmo’s third-floor pizza joint had a sign (or a name), its
New York-style pizza would surely taste just as delicious and inspire
late-night lines just as long. Still, there’s something extra
scrumptious about feeling like an insider, knowing that one of Las
Vegas’ best slices lives down an unmarked hallway, footsteps from some
of the Strip’s finest dining destinations. Perfect before a pool
concert, after a night at Marquee or really anytime you don’t feel like
getting on an airplane to hunt down great pizza.
26. Chicken fried lobster
Binion’s Ranch Steak House, at Binion’s, 382-1600.
This dish was originally created for the rodeo cowboys, and for a
long time it wasn’t even on Binion’s menu. That’s all changed now, and
for good reason. This baby, a large piece of lobster tail, breaded and
fried, can hold its own with any steak or prime rib in the place. Along
with a baked potato and the rest of the fixins, you’ll be lucky if you
can finish the whole meal. But it makes great leftovers, too.
27. Chicken Benedict
Hash House A Go Go, multiple locations.
How big is this
Man vs. Food favorite? Put it this way—it
takes a minute just to process this dish. A layer of mashed potatoes
topped with a huge biscuit, breaded chicken, bacon, tomato, cheese,
spinach, eggs, ... if you’re up to the challenge of finishing the whole
thing, take plenty of pictures—no one’s going to believe you. Did we
mention it’s delicious?
Guest Pick: Adam Rapoport, Editor-in-Chief, Bon Appétit
Presenting Vegas Uncork’d, May 10-13)
28. Adam’s progressive Vegas dinner
Multiple locations.
Rapoport would start his dinner with a spicy crab salad from Alain
Ducasse’s Mix at Mandalay Bay. (“Who doesn’t love guacamole? Even Alain
Ducasse loves guac!” Rapoport says.) Then it’s off to STK for the
20-ounce bone-in rib steak, “the most flavorful steak you can buy,”
accompanied by a side of “pillows of deliciousness” aka ricotta gnocchi
from Bellagio’s Sensi. For dessert, it’s the Louvre from Payard
Patisserie & Bistro at Caesars Palace, a chocolate and hazelnut
mousse with a hazelnut
dacquoise.
29. Six-course tasting menu
Twist, at Mandarin Oriental, 888-881-9367.
Pierre Gagnaire wasn’t the first French legend to open a great
restaurant in Vegas, but he did take the cuisine to new and innovative
heights on the Strip. At Twist, chef de cuisine Pascal Sanchez reflects
Gagnaire’s creative spirit, best experienced through six ever-changing
courses ($189) driven by the best ingredients of the season, such as
roasted venison with black pepper, juniper berries, salsify and yellow
beets.
30. The Parma Chef’s
Table Chef Marc’s Pastavino & Deli, 7591 W. Washington Ave., #110, 233-6272.
Tasting menus are common on the Strip, but not so much off. At the
Parma Chef’s Table, Chef Marc serves four courses of expertly prepared
Italian offerings using whatever ingredients are freshest that evening,
presenting and explaining each dish tableside. Let him do what he does
best and bask in the liberation ... and pray he’s serving the ahi tuna
Bolognese. Trust us on this one.
31. The Bobbie
Capriotti’s Sandwich Shop, multiple locations.
Thanksgiving anytime you want it. It’s a genius concept, and
Capriotti’s has been executing it expertly for years. Hunks of turkey,
scoops of stuffing and dollops of cranberry sauce, piled high on a sub
roll. Why wait till November?
Guest Pick: Wesley Gatbonton, Associate Art Director, Las Vegas Weekly
32. Oxtail soup
Market Street Cafe, at the California, 385-1222.
“It’s tough to say why this Hawaiian favorite is so damn good, but
oxtail soup doesn’t discriminate. The meat is ridiculously tender, and
the broth could drive someone to inflict bodily harm. I mean it, I would
stab someone with a plastic spoon for a bowl of this soup. Another part
of the experience is picking up that oxtail bone and sucking out the
meat. Some people think it’s rude, but I say anything less would be
uncivilized. Sometimes I find myself dreaming about the Cal’s oxtail
soup and literally drooling all over myself. In fact, I just drooled
writing this. A perfect drunken night Downtown almost always ends with
my face in a big bowl of oxtail soup. Hallelujah.”
33. The Settebello
Settebello Pizzeria Napoletana, 140 S. Green Valley Parkway, 222-3556.
Sausage. Pancetta. Roasted Mushrooms. Pine nuts. Basil. Crushed
tomatoes. Fresh mozzarella. Starting up the car? We haven’t even gotten
to the best part, Settebello’s authentic, to-die-for crust. It’s
hand-worked, cooked in a wood-fired oven and chews like nothing else
you’ll find in town. Get a pie for yourself and you’ll understand why
we’re always talking about this place. There’s pizza, and then there’s
Settebello.
34. 16-course degustation menu
Joël Robuchon, at MGM Grand, 891-7925.
If ever a meal could be worth $425 per head, it would have to be
composed by the Chef of the Century. Robuchon’s lieutenants, Claude Le
Tohic and pastry chef Kamel Guechida, wow those willing to make the
ultimate splurge with an endless array of modern, sophisticated culinary
artistry. Not down? Take the less intense route next door at the
equally sublime L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, where the Seasonal Discovery
Menu ($155) will blow your mind with poached baby Kusshi oysters and
the decadent white onion tart with quail egg “mirror.”
35. Tamago burger
Fukuburger truck, follow @fukuburger.
A fried egg is the obvious
piece de resistance on Fukuburger’s Tamago burger (
tamago being Japanese for “egg”). Runny yolk intertwines with Asian-inspired ingredients—
furikake,
teriyaki and wasabi mayo—atop a perfectly medium-rare patty for a
majestic mound of messiness. The pinnacle of Vegas street food.
36. Buffet Bellagio
At Bellagio, 693-8111.
The perfect casino buffet (quality, quantity, low price, no line)
does not exist in Vegas. And if it doesn’t exist here, it doesn’t exist
anywhere. That said, we’ve got one that comes pretty damn close:
Bellagio’s. Year after year, the Bellagio buffet offers up a diverse
selection of fresh eats (seafood, Italian, Chinese, Japanese) in a
spacious room, at a fair price. Head there for a $29.95 dinner,
Sunday-Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m. Weekends and holidays only mean higher
prices and longer lines.
37. Foie gras custard ‘brûlée’
Sage, at Aria, 230-2742.
The dish that put chef Shawn McLain on the Vegas culinary map is an
amalgam of sweet and savory, while the addictively salted brioche
alongside serves as a perfect foil for its richness. This is foie gras
for those unwilling to try foie gras. And the versatility of the
“brûlée” is its hallmark—order it as an appetizer, entrée or dessert. Or
all three.
38. White chocolate bread pudding
Mon Ami Gabi, at Paris Las Vegas, 944-4224.
Sure, Mon Ami Gabi has the most ridiculously entertaining Strip view
(people watching, Bellagio fountains), but this is what you’ll really
want to look at—a savory chunk of chocolate-infused bread pudding,
topped with glaze, powdered sugar and a huge, perfectly rounded scoop of
vanilla ice cream. It’s amazing how many Las Vegans still haven’t tried
this. For shame.
39. Top of the World
At Stratosphere, 380-7711.
Don’t be fooled by the gimmickry of a revolving restaurant 845 feet
in the air; the food at Stratosphere’s Top of the World is as good as it
gets. Avoid the tasting menu and create your own experience, taking
your time to savor roasted pork belly with chimichurri sauce, foie gras
with berry gastrique and Mediterranean Colorado rack of lamb while
enjoying unparalleled views of the Valley.
40. Prime rib
Bob Taylor’s Original Ranch House, 6250 Rio Vista St., 645-1399.
Virtually unchanged since 1955, the Ranch House is a portal to the
real Wild West days of Vegas, when everybody took a dusty trail north to
get the best steak in town. There’s more competition now, but few
places still serve big, luscious cuts of smoked prime rib of beef with
soup or salad and a baked potato for 30 bucks.
41. Taramasalata
RM Seafood upstairs, at Mandalay Place, 632-9300.
RM upstairs is where Rick Moonen showcases his sustainable dining options in a high-end setting. The best part? The free
taramasalata
Moonen serves as an alternative to butter with every meal. The dip is a
combination of almonds, onions and potato whipped with carp roe, lemon
juice and oil, and the result is sublime with just a hint of the
saltiness normally associated with roe. You won’t even miss butter.
42. Jim’s bulgogi fried rice
KoMex Fusion Express, 633 N. Decatur Blvd., Suite H, 646-1612.
I don’t love this dish because they named it for me. They named the
dish for me because I love it so much. This Chinese/Korean plate nestled
firmly among KoMex’s Korean/Mexican favorites is awash in smoke with
just enough sweetness. It’s among the most addictive dishes in town and
undoubtedly one of my personal favorites.
–Jim Begley
43. Bone-in veal Parm and meatballs
Rao’s, at Caesars Palace, 877-346-4642.
We’re lucky to have our own outpost of Rao’s, since the original is
effectively a member’s-only supper club in East Harlem. Don’t pass on
the opportunity to delve into the bone-in veal Parmesan with a side of
meatballs. The veal Parm is immaculate (finding the bone-in variety is a
rarity), while the meatballs—a combination of veal, beef and
pork—exhibit the perfect ratio of fat to meat. Vegas is so much better
than New York.
44. All-you-can-eat sushi
Sushi Mon, 9770 S. Maryland Parkway #3, 617-0241.
Sushi lovers know, eating your fill of raw fish can be a costly
endeavor. And price typically equates to quality; reduce the first and
you’ll usually sacrifice the latter. But Sushi Mon has found the magic
formula, one that allows it to serve mountains of first-rate food for an
affordable flat rate ($21.95 at lunch and $26.95 at dinner). Sushi
rolls, pieces, appetizers, desserts—it’s all included, and it won’t
leave you hungry. Or looking for a second job.
45. é at Jaleo by José Andrés
At Cosmopolitan, reserve@ebyjoseandres.com.
There are rumors—nay, legends—of a speakeasy-esque restaurant
somewhere inside chef José Andrés’ Jaleo. The rumors are true. It is é, a
culinary performance room that showcases a 26-course tasting menu,
which intimately displays Andrés’ avant-garde Spanish cuisine. The
eight-seat restaurant is so reclusive, you can’t even call for
reservations—they’re accepted only by email. Sure hope you’re on the
interwebs.
Guest Pick: Corey “Big Hoss” Harrison, Pawn Stars
46. Meatballs
Lavo, at Palazzo, 791-1800.
Where’s the beef? Corey Harrison would tell you it’s at Lavo, where
the meatballs are the “best I’ve ever had. Best in the world.” Chef
Ralph Scamardella’s meatballs aren’t your typical pasta topper. They’re
big as softballs, made from ground A5 Kobe (the really good stuff) and
served individually as very share-able appetizers. Get one with whipped
fresh ricotta and eat like Big Hoss.
47. Red velvet pancakes
Babystacks Cafe, 2400 N. Buffalo Dr., #145, 541-6708; 4135 S. Buffalo Dr., #101, 207-6432.
Atop a menu strewn with wonderful brunch options sit Babystacks’ red
velvet pancakes. Harkening to the dessert favorite, they’re dressed with
housemade whipped cream and chocolate crumbles, served alongside
cream-cheese syrup. Low calorie this is not—but it is one of the
Valley’s most delectable brunch surprises.
48. Jazz Brunch
The Country Club, at Wynn Las Vegas, 770-3315. Sunday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m., $59.
A good brunch feels like an event—cocktails before noon, leisurely
dining that goes on for hours and a spread on both sides of the
sweet/savory spectrum. When that spread includes New Orleans-style gumbo
and elegant pastries, all the better. Few places do the meal of meals
as well as the Country Club, where chef Carlos Guia’s Jazz Brunch
channels his Big Easy past right into your belly. Bring it.
49. Athens fries
Paymon’s Mediterranean Cafe, 8380 W. Sahara Ave., 804-0293; 4147 S. Maryland Parkway, 731-6030.
Paymon’s has long been a locals’ favorite, and the Athens fries are a
big part of that popularity. Cayenne is the key ingredient here,
elevating these crisply cooked potato slices from the realm of delicious
to absolutely addictive. Wait until you try them in the spicy dipping
sauce. There’s much to enjoy at Paymon’s, but this is where you want to
start.
50. Surf and turf
Golden Steer, 308 W. Sahara Ave, 384-4470.
Open since 1958, the Golden Steer Steakhouse is more famous for its
well-known visitors (Sinatra, Sammy and Elvis, to name a few) and
sticking-to-the-throwback vibe than its classic cuisine. But order that
most vintage Vegas meal—mixing and matching filet mignon or a juicy New
York strip with a lobster tail or crab legs—and you’ll be impressed with
how fresh and flavorful old-school food can be.
This story first appeared in Sun sister publication
Las Vegas Weekly.
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